Two Years in Thailand

Not Bali

2009-05-05T19:44:00.000-07:00

I have alot of catching up to do. This is not Bali. This is Chiang Mai. It's the view from our new favorite place to stay in town. When this picture was taken the air was still pretty smokey. Chiang Mai has three seasons, hot, wet, and smokey but cool. The rains have started and the air has cleared up. The Frangiapani and Jasmine are in bloom.
Lately I have been enjoying the slow pace of life here. We have been distracted by a spider who moved in on our porch. Daniel took to catching bugs and feeding her in the evening by placing them in her web. It became a night time ritual with the flashlight. We anxiously awaited for her to lay her eggs. She was a very scary looking spider with a gigantic abdomen and black and white striped legs with bright orange on her underside. She became about one third her size after she layed her eggs. I really came to love this spider and now she has gone away and left behind her sweetie and her eggs.
The highlights of my week are the nights I go to yoga and most nights I am in bed asleep by ten. In the morning there is a dragonfly who sits on the same branch outside our bedroom window every day. The cicadas are back with their deafening cry and the fountain in front of school has a regular chorus of frogs at night. Our trip to Bali seems so distant.

Bali

2009-04-22T19:41:00.000-07:00

Patchwork Quilt Billboard

2009-03-04T02:06:00.000-08:00

What I miss right now

2009-03-04T01:56:00.000-08:00

Cold rainy gray mornings and the warming up part. Assam tea with milk and sugar.
The beach in the wintertime. Collecting sticks and shells and interesting seaweed.
The steel colors of winter and the surprise of finding berries against a backdrop of white snow.
Blackbirds.
Baked goods.
Rosy cheeks on the face of someone I love.
Knitted things.
Flea markets and goodwill and garage sales- stacks of treasures in rows of like things.
Nice teacups.
Knowing where to go.
Clouds.

Jesse's passing

2009-01-17T03:15:00.000-08:00

Our friend Jesse passed away ten days ago now. Jesse was an incredible unique individual. It was a great joy to watch him grow up and to know him. When we tell friends here in Thailand about his story Daniel leads with - "Jesse was the kind of person who transformed you when you met him" and it's true. We are honored and thankful to be a part of Jesse's community. We have been very homesick and sad these days and feel so very far away.

LOVE IS THE FUNERAL PYRE

Love is
The funeral pyre
Where I have laid my living body

All the false notions of myself
That once caused fear, pain

Have turned to ash
As I neared God.

What has risen
From the tangled web of thought and sinew

Now shines with jubilation
Through the eyes of angels

And screams from the guts of
Infinite existence
Itself.

Love is the funeral pyre
Where the heart must lay
Its body.

Hafiz

Jesse

2009-01-04T05:44:00.000-08:00

Our dear friend Jesse, son of our beloved friend Lisa, needs all the help he can get right now. He is very sick with cancer. He and his family need all the love and light that you can send them. Please take a moment to hold Jesse and his family in your thoughts.

Happy New Year!

2008-12-31T10:25:00.000-08:00

Miklos and Ester

New Years Eve lunch with cousins Miklos and Ester.

It has been a big year for Daniel and I. We celebrated our one year anniversary. We bought a house in Vermont. We left the pink house in Oakland. We moved to Thailand. Daniel started teaching. I started teaching again. We didn't go to Burningman. Dear friends had babies, dear friends are getting married! We spent Christmas in Budapest with Daniel's lovely family. It's been a really busy and really rich year! Above all I feel a huge amount of gratitude and grace surrounding us. More than ever in my life I am thankful for our community and the love of friends and family and my amazing loving husband!

Train to Vienna

2008-12-31T01:14:00.000-08:00

So classy.

Seen around Budapest while on the hunt for Channukah candles

2008-12-30T12:51:00.000-08:00

Puppet Theater in Budapest

2008-12-30T11:41:00.000-08:00

You can see all the children visitors have left their own art made by swinging the fire alarm handle. We both loved this.

Daniel and I went to see a puppet show at 10:30 am on a Friday morning. The show was made by lovely Kate, from Poland. We met her in a gallery the day before and got on the topic of puppetry and making puppet shows and she asked, "Do you know Eric Bass?" and we both laughed! Daniel has worked with Eric on puppet shows and he is a dear friend from Vermont. In fact he kindly opened his home to us while we made preparations for our wedding last fall. Kate worked with Eric while he did a show in Poland. We were delighted to meet Kate and go see her show in Budapest. A show of love and war and love conquering all.

Gastronomical Budapest or "How We Gained Ten Pounds"

2008-12-30T08:12:00.000-08:00

Fishing Village in Ko Chang

2008-11-12T17:49:00.000-08:00

This post is now a little out of date but the internet has not been cooperating the last few times I tried to update the blog. Life on the hill in Thailand does not always have reliable internet service. This was a most delicious fish.

Thank God!

2008-11-04T20:36:00.000-08:00

Jumping up and down in Thailand for OBAMA!!!!!!

underwater

2008-10-29T18:28:00.000-07:00

The sensation of being underwater for me was otherworldly or how I imagine being in space might be. If I thought about it too much it was not right, foreign and strange but also lovely to be a visitor in that place. I felt an amazing sense of discovery that this is part of the planet I live on. So many unfamiliar things to see.
Daniel liked getting up really close to the corals and looking at all the details. I liked sitting in one place and looking into the vast chalky blue - this tableau was amazing feeling. I was moved too to see another diver in this deep space and the silver air bubbles rising to the surface. We did two dives, both for an hour. In our conversations with other divers they kept saying how quick an hour underwater feels. I felt like we must be like bulls in a china shop down there and the minutes crept by.

off the beach for a hike

2008-10-29T17:47:00.000-07:00

my sweetheart

2008-10-28T19:46:00.000-07:00

Sunset in Ko Chang

2008-10-28T19:19:00.000-07:00

Friend at the beach

2008-10-28T19:01:00.000-07:00

One of the best parts for me about being at the beach is the way time slows down and the day gets occupied by watching crabs scurry about and the like.

Ko Chang

2008-10-28T03:24:00.000-07:00

Bangkok

2008-10-22T16:20:00.000-07:00

We didn't take very many pictures in Bangkok. A reason to go back. I love Bangkok. It is a city of great contrast. Since we only had a day this time we actually stayed pretty close to home for most of our time and enjoyed our private balcony overlooking the river watching life go by. Wat Po was right behind our small hotel. We went to see the giant sleeping gold Buddha and make 108 wishes. We debated -was it best to make 108 different wishes or the same one over and over? We'll let you know.

On the water taxi for an afternoon adventure. We went to Siam Paragon for some serious window shopping.

Our private balcony. We were very happy here and both had a hard time leaving. It was easy to imagine a life in Bangkok living on the water watching tug boats pull barges past and listening to the sounds of an alive waterway. Knowing there was a beach waiting for us was a pretty good incentive to get up early and fly south.

The view at night from our balcony. Directly across from our balcony stood Wat Arun on guard.

Riding the rails

2008-10-22T02:42:00.000-07:00

Bangkok train station

Around Ayuthaya

2008-10-21T18:20:00.001-07:00

Ayuthaya

2008-10-21T17:49:00.000-07:00

Daniels discouraging fortune, unfortunately.

We've been doing our best to maintain purities.

Back From Holiday

2008-10-21T17:20:00.000-07:00

Foreshadowing at the train station cafe.

We've just returned from our October break.
We made our way to a beach in Koh Chang with no electricity and very few other people which was perfect for our one year Anniversary. Thanks to all who sent their love and cards for this special occasion! I have alot of pictures to share but I think it's best done over a few days.

We started our trip with an overnight train to Bangkok with a stop for an overnight in Ayuthaya on the way. The train trip highlight was when the monk sleeping next to us did his bathing ritual in the morning and flooded the car.

Kate and Paul

2008-10-07T18:31:00.000-07:00

We forgot the camera this weekend so you'll have to wait for photos that our new friends Paul and Kate have promised to email us when they get back to the states from their honeymoon. Kate and Paul came to us through my dear friend Thea who I spent many hours with, actually we figure we spent more hours with each other than we did with our husbands, while working at California College of the Arts. I have definitely suffered some withdrawal from my days with Thea. Kate and Paul were super great! Thanks Thea!
Check out Kate's project which I have long been an admirer of- http://www.mundanejourneys.com/
It was so great to have a full weekend of visitors and to be able to show them around and realize we are getting to know the area. We do have some favorite spots. The best part was getting to know Kate and Paul! And they brought us Blue Bottle coffee on top of it all!
This was so much fun! If you have friends coming our way please send them our way!

swim meet

2008-10-03T01:10:00.000-07:00

Our school hosted a swim meet today. I loved all the bright colors

Chiang Dao

2008-09-28T17:26:00.000-07:00

1000 year old chedi across from the caves.

Sacred fish outside the caves.

Chiang Dao is famous for it's caves. We did do a little spelunking ourselves. For a few dollars we hired this little woman to take us deep into the caves with a propane lantern. She would point at things on the wall and smile up at me and say things like "ma" and wait for me to repeat it and then say "kaa, horse".
The surrounding beauty of Chiang Dao was the real attraction along with a sweet stay at a homey place called the Nest. If you ever come to visit we're taking you there because the food was fantastic!

The view from the Nest

We walked along a dirt path from the Nest to this monastery which is set into the mountain, in fact part of it is a cave. You have to climb 500 steps to get to the chedi at the top and all along the way there are motivational signs tacked to trees reminding you to stay present and be content with where you are at.

We have been on the hunt for hot springs and the Nest had given us a little hand drawn map with a spot indicating hot springs. Our first attempt to find them we got sidetracked in some farmer's fields.
Really hot we could only put our feet in. Next time we will come in the evening and fill the tub and let it cool down.

Rice Fields around Chiang Dao

On the road to Chiang Dao

2008-09-28T16:52:00.000-07:00

Cheery fellows at the market in Samoeng.

Heroes Day

2008-09-25T02:45:00.000-07:00

I caught this hero on the playground this morning from our balcony.

Our home off the mountain in Chiang Mai

2008-09-21T08:35:00.000-07:00

This is where we have been staying every weekend. The 3 Sis Guesthouse. We've spent many hours lounging in this courtyard. There is a wat across the street and sometimes you can hear the monks chanting.

The trusty bike that gets me around town.

Sunday Picnic

2008-09-21T08:23:00.000-07:00

fabric market

2008-09-21T08:17:00.000-07:00

A rainy Saturday at the fabric market. I was looking for upholstery fabric but instead mostly bought some fabrics to have a dress made. I seem to end up here every Saturday for hours combing the thousands of bolts of fabric. I got a bright red, green and florescent pink chinese fabric that I had in my mind as the perfect fabric for chair cushions- Im not so sure now that I got it home. I'll post a picture later.

Around Chiang Mai

2008-09-21T08:10:00.001-07:00

Our new neighbor

2008-09-18T17:46:00.000-07:00

She moved in yesterday. She is the size of a grapefruit. I am not kidding.

one more elephant

2008-09-18T00:35:00.000-07:00

mama elephant.

More things Im excited about

2008-09-18T00:25:00.000-07:00

A sunny afternoon

These bunnies I got at the Saturday night walking market

My new skirt

Things Im excited about

2008-09-16T18:30:00.001-07:00

Some of you may have heard that we have had some darker moments over here in Thailand. Despite the lush green of our surroundings culture shock has had it's way with us. We were warned but somehow warnings don't fully prepare you. Things I'm excited about....

I got a coffee maker!
The sun is out this morning.
We have a new mattress arriving tomorrow- local natural latex- resists mold!
I went to a yoga class I loved on Friday with a bunch of women from school.
We are starting to make friends.
I found the most beautiful iridescent beetle.
We had a delicious burrito after class-OMG.
I got a cheer up package from my mom. Yay mail!
The look of real discovery on the faces of some of my students.
We have a break in three weeks- should we...

Go to Halong Bay and Hanoi, Vietnam
Go south on a train to the land of shadow puppets and local beaches
Go to Krabi for beautiful limestone karst jutting out of the sea and tourist beaches
Do a road trip in the Northeast of Thailand and go to a festival of flaming boats

Comments are requested

Around Chiang Mai

2008-09-16T18:25:00.000-07:00

Sunday Hike

2008-09-16T05:19:00.000-07:00

We heard a rumor that elephants go to the waterfall right past the nearest village around 1pm on the weekends so we went to explore for ourselves.

Our school sits in this valley

Banana Plants

ice cream

2008-09-08T18:36:00.001-07:00

Daniel claims that he didn't have "Skippy" growing up - he had the Good Humour man. Who screams "The Good Humour Man is coming!" when ice cream is involved? This is our local Skippy.

Around Chiang Mai

2008-09-03T18:42:00.000-07:00

I Want this hat

Daniel takes a dive

2008-09-02T05:56:00.000-07:00

Wai Khru Ceremony

2008-09-02T05:36:00.000-07:00

The Wai Khru ceremony is done to pay respect to teachers at the beginning of the school year. All of the students present cones they have made from bannana leaves and filled with flowers to the teachers with a kneel and a wai.
To wai you place your hands together in prayer position and hold your hands so that your thumb or fingertips depending on the type of wai are at the level of your nose and you bow your head.
In Thai culture there is an elaborate system of different wais depending on your status. In the case of the Wai Khru ceremony the deepest respect wai is used. In Thailand, ajarns- or teachers hold a very high place in terms of respect, just below monks. Even someone of a very high position would still wai their elementary teacher with utmost respect if they were to see them. I'm seated here with my new friend Cate. We had to dress in traditional Thai garb. In the morning I had a Thai top on too- but luckily I spilt tea down the front and had to change - I felt a little too much like I worked at Epcot center.

First Week of School

2008-08-19T03:35:00.001-07:00

Orientation

After our first day of school.

Feels like we have been in school for three long months- in fact it's only been a week.
I had my first day of teaching 6th graders today. Whoa are they squirrelly! I've got 21 for a double block and half of them barely speak English the other half are fluent. We talked about Superheros today and I had them create an alter ego for themselves- I really could have used one myself!
The pace of our life here feels very good. I love being able to pop over to Daniel's classroom and say hello. We are kept busy after dinner by stopping for a quick game of ping pong, playing "hunters and gatherers", reading and drawing. We also managed to score the fifth season of "The Wire" which we finished before it was released in the US.

Saturday

2008-08-13T01:42:00.001-07:00

One of the things I miss most is coffee. Only Nescafe on the mountain.

Marka and her brother Quattro came for a visit. Our first visitors! We drove up to Doi Suthep Wat and then made them follow us around looking for a sofa in a hip neighborhood which turns out has tons of cute boutiques but no sofas. Big news though we did manage to get a sofa. It has hideous cushions that we plan to have recovered in beautiful Thai silk. I will do a before and after later. At the moment Im just glad to not be sticking to the brown pleather couches that welcomed us.

ice cream, hunting and gathering

2008-08-13T01:35:00.000-07:00

burger time!

2008-08-13T01:29:00.000-07:00

Independence

2008-08-05T16:56:00.000-07:00

Having a car has given us some independence. The most lovely part of the school is it's nestled in the jungle feeling- also makes having a car a necessary tool to avoid cabin fever.

We went for our first explore yesterday evening. We traveled past the school and further into the jungle mountains with a pit stop in the local village for some fried rice at dusk.

I was afraid Pokey might not make it up the steep climb- but she did - no problem.

Wheels!

2008-08-05T16:38:00.000-07:00

Our new car- "Pokey"

Daniel gets used to driving standard on the left side.

Our Local gas stop.

Off the mountain for a snack

2008-08-02T15:33:00.001-07:00

The Big C

2008-08-02T15:17:00.000-07:00

Our Own Private Paradise

2008-08-01T19:17:00.001-07:00

The view out our balcony

The fog of jet lag has just begun to lift. This morning I unpacked my books and we made lists of what we need to get in order to make this place feel like home. Home for two years. The sound of the BART has been replaced by bird songs, cicadas, and the occasional pounding rain. Last night it rained harder than I can ever remember hearing. Just when I thought it couldn't get any louder it would crescendo to a whole other volume. There was a toad the size of grapefruit on our steps last night.

Our days have been occupied by meeting our lovely fellow staff and going to the mall- they keep taking us to the mall. The stores have a bunch of people standing around waiting to help or follow you around while you look at irons.